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 Ask Philip is a new feature on our website. If you have a fashion or an "our store" related question, email Philip and he will personally answer your question.
Previous Q&A:
Q: What is smart casual? (LR, via email)
A: Smart casual is a term one hears here from time to time, but is more commonly used in Great Britain. Basically, it means dressy, but not as dressy as a suit. In practical terms, this means polished shoes, a crisp sport shirt or dress shirt with no tie, and perhaps a sweater or a sport jacket. Pants need to be immaculate. Trousers, such as pressed chinos would do well. Denims may not be appropriate at all (call it as you see it when you get the invitation) but if they are, one needs to wear darker, clean cut denims, that are neither torn nor abraded. No scuffed shoes, no flip flops, no shorts or other normally accepted BBQ wear.
Q: What is Black Tie with Miniatures? (LR, via email)
A: Black tie with miniatures means two things: wear a tuxedo, and, if you have, one can also wear military or civilian order medals (decorations) in miniature. All medals come full size and in miniature, and it's these miniatures that your query refers to. In Canada and the U.S., black tie (dinner jackets) is the norm for formal events, and these events, announced 'with miniatures', allows for the wearing of your medals. FYI, in the UK, and Europe, white tie (evening wear) is considered ‘formal' and normally one would only wear medals and orders (decorations) when the invitation calls for white tie, and of course, the miniatures themselves. Oh, and so not to appear gauche, a maximum of 6 medals should be worn.
Q: Is Business Attire a suit with dress shirt and tie? (LR, via email)
A: A business suit is indeed a suit and tie suitable for business wear. In the UK, this is sometimes referred to as a lounge suit. I'm not entirely sure about this part, but I believe it's because back in the day, if invited to a party at someone's home, one dressed up, though not formally, and spent time in the hosts' lounge (living room in Canada).
Q: What is Business Dress? (LR, via email)
A: Business dress generally refers to a business suit, dress shirt and tie. A plain blazer and grey pants would also suffice, as blazers are the dressiest of what's commonly called 'sports jackets'. One could loosen this up a bit, depending on the event attended. For a networking mixer, go with any jacket and tie. For a dinner to honour someone, stay with the dressier look. Really, it's hard to be overdressed at something like that.
Q: I'm at a point at my life where I figure I should own a suit for social functions. I'd like to have something versatile and of good quality. I'm leaning towards a dark, possibly blue, single breasted wool suit. Although I have moderate proportions, I like the idea of having something made to fit. However, that's about the extent of what I know regarding suits. I was hoping you could extend that a little. Am I going to get a better product having something made rather than paying for a designer name? Is there a price point where the increase in quality no longer corresponds to the increase in price? If I truly want something that will last me several years, but without getting extravagant, what should I budget? If I were to have something made, what is the production time? (CM, via email)
A: Let me offer my congratulations to you. Buying a first suit is the start of an epic, and I feel honoured to be a part of it. You're on the right track for versatility in choosing a dark blue suit. Black would also be an excellent choice for a first suit, as both are dressy and easy to accessorize. At some point, a gray check or striped suit should make an appearance in the wardrobe build out too.
As for having a custom suit made, it is a romantic notion to have something bespoke. If you're looking for a garment which fits only you, or if you're keen for a particular cloth, or just bragging rights, custom made may be the way to go.
You ask about getting a 'better product' in custom, but this really depends on what you mean by 'better'. Without a clear definition, you may not get what you're after. If by 'better product' you mean better quality fabric and a higher level of construction, the answer is no, custom is no better. However, as stated above, you will get something no one else has got.
As to the point where price continues to go up but quality doesn't, that starts with additions and upgrades, such as embroidery, hand stitching and so on. Every time one adds a service or an embellishment, one pays more. Think of a base model car and its option packages. The base car is the same quality steel and construction as one loaded up, and it's here where the price increases. Does one need a heated steering wheel? It's sure nice, and some people have them, but the car isn't a better quality for it, though perhaps more desirable.
When considering longevity, one needs to start with a cloth that suits one's needs. Some cloths are made for luxury, others for durability. Finer wools, like Super 120's (the gauge of the wool fibre), are buttery soft to touch, but won't hold up to every day work wear. Speak about your needs to your sales associate, and work together to select a cloth which meets your requirements. Generally speaking, this store sells work wear to business people, so garments sold here are made to last. Failing negligence or mishap, you should be good for several years or longer in a Philip Nyren suit.
With regard to price, you ought to budget around the thousand dollar mark for off the rack or an entry level custom garment, depending on the make. You may want to note, a custom garment can be priced in more than one way, which is to say, a custom suit isn't necessarily made-to-measure, though it's cut and made just for you. A custom suit costs less than made-to-measure, but is just as individual. This is an excellent option for someone wanting the bespoke experience, without the unnecessary costs associated with a difficult-to-fit physique.
By the way, the custom house the store uses can, if need be, turn around a custom garment in seven business days, but 3 weeks would be a normal time frame. Please feel free to email again to get answers to the questions I'm sure will come from this preliminary information.
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